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When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.